Reverse Feeding: New Amiibo Training Method

Note: Do not repost the full training method without direct permission from the Amiibo Dojo. It took a long time to develop it!

The way we’ve approached training amiibo has stayed the same for quite some time now. Even though our current methods are tried and true, I’m always testing new training methods behind-the-scenes. And now, I’ve cooked up a fresh concept after toying with it for several hours. It’s called Reverse Feeding, and it comes with a slew of never-before-seen benefits.

The Concept

As you know, both combos and aerials are seen as “newbie tactics” in the amiibo metagame. Sometimes, even when you try your best to keep your amiibo grounded, it will still occasionally go for aerials and get itself killed. The “Reverse Feeding” method aims to fix this and more. If you want to see the results in action, check out my latest stream. There’s no commentary or anything like that, just raw game footage. Take note of my Ness amiibo’s performance: with this training, he was able to defeat my Bowser amiibo (Ness’ matchup against Bowser is notoriously poor) and contend with a viewer’s Bowser amiibo. Ness was able to swiftly defeat all of his other opponents. You might say my Ness is good because I’m good with Ness, but he started getting much better as a result of this new training. Now then, enough beating around the bush – let’s get right to it.

How to “Reverse Feed” Your Amiibo

Reverse Feeding can be done on any amiibo, regardless of its level. Equip your amiibo with -50 Attack, -50 Defense, and 0 Speed. For its bonuses, equip Weakened jumping ability, Weakened air attacks, and Increased landing impact. That’s right – you’re going to nerf your amiibo. Be sure to keep any of its custom moves – don’t change them.

So what is this going to do for your amiibo? Well, for one, its new bonus effects will discourage it from jumping. With lower jump, weakened aerials, and increased landing lag, it’s going to be difficult for your amiibo to execute any of its air attacks, which is exactly what you want. This setup essentially encourages your amiibo to remain grounded – which automatically makes your amiibo stronger in and of itself. With negative points in Attack and Defense, you’ll have no problem defeating your amiibo with the moves you want it to use. Check out our training guides to find out which attacks are best for your character.

Putting negative Attack and Defense and neutral Speed onto your amiibo is most easily performed with an external editing device. These trinkets are incapable of changing how your amiibo acts, but they can effortlessly change its stats and bonuses. Whatever you do, make sure that your amiibo’s Speed is 0 (or within five points of it). If you can’t get your amiibo to negative Attack, negative Defense, and neutral Speed, try reducing its Attack stat, loading up its defense, and keeping its Speed as 0. You can then give it a handicap to compensate for its increased Defense – although this method may be just a bit less effective.

Training With Reverse Feeding

Once your amiibo is set up, all you have to do is continue training it as you normally would. Mirror match it and use your character’s best damage-rackers and KO moves (which, again, are located in our character guides) for several matches in a row on Ω-form stages.

Once your amiibo is in a good position, and you’re ready to either enter it into a tournament or throw it into some matches against your other amiibo, you will need to change its equipment. Once again, this is most easily performed on an external editing device – saving your amiibo’s progress after this change isn’t recommended – that is, you should keep it in its nerfed state for as long as possible and use a backup with equipment for amiibo vs. amiibo battles.

Each fighter’s training guide includes a recommended bonus effect setup. Apply that setup to your amiibo’s backup (if possible). However, there is one caveat – most Reverse-Fed amiibo perform best if given a negative Speed stat. For example, my Ness amiibo was equipped with -50 Attack, -50 Defense, and 0 Speed, but when I equipped it, I changed the setup to +100 Attack, +100 Defense, and -80 Speed. Don’t give your amiibo a Speed stat greater than 0, even if one of our guides recommend it. Our guides assume you’re feeding your amiibo from Level 1, and without Reverse Feeding.

Once your amiibo has its new stat spread, don’t play any matches with it. Throw it into battle, and if trained well, you’ll see a notable boost in its performance. The benefits include, but are not limited to: less aerials, less random jumping, and more strategic recoveries. Plus, your amiibo will straight-up make better decisions, which can go a long way in increasing its potential.

One more thing – you might’ve heard some people say it’s not a good idea to put your amiibo into a match without giving it time to adjust to its new setup. However, this isn’t the entire truth – the only time amiibo need time to adjust is if it receives a Speed stat over 0 or if one of its custom moves changes. With Reverse Feeding, your amiibo does not need to adjust, as its playstyle should smoothly transition into its new setup.

And that’s about it! I hope you all give Reverse Feeding a shot – it’s worked wonders for me and has allowed some of my weaker amiibo to contend against the strong. If you have an external editing device such as an Amiibo Powersaves (or some kind of Android app, if one exists), you should definitely give this a shot. It’s still possible without it, but there are some corners you’ll have to cut. If you have any questions, feel free to fill out the contact form and leave a message. Happy training!

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2 thoughts on “Reverse Feeding: New Amiibo Training Method”

  1. I don’t understand why you “don’t want to save your amiibo’s progress” or why you would want your amiibo to have a negative speed stat, could you please explain these a little more for me?

    1. Basically, Reverse Feeding is meant to be a one-time type of deal. If your amiibo continues to switch back and forth between positive and negative bonus effects, it could be a bad thing. Essentially you will want to keep your amiibo “nerfed” so that it never has a match with any positive stats or equipment. Only when you submit it to tournaments, etc. should it have its equipment.

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